I scent the sea far and near. Marina Sycheva

On January 16th, 2022, Zurab Chichoshvili jumped out of the window of his room at the former Kartli sanatorium. He died from his injuries. Zurab was one of 200 thousand refugees who were forced to leave their homes during the war in Abkhazia in 1992-93.

The collapse of the USSR led to wars within the former republics. Abkhazia, which was part of the Georgian SSR, declared its independence. This was the beginning of a bloody war between Abkhazia and Georgia. Thousands of ethnic Georgians left their homes in a hurry, often without even having time to take their documents with them. They were resettled in former Soviet sanatoriums throughout Georgia, which were massively built on the territory of the former republic during the reign of Joseph Stalin. Then 186 sanatoriums were built, the most popular of them were located in the regions adjacent to the Black Sea. Sanatoriums, designed to glorify the idea of the prosperity of socialism, after the collapse of the Union turned out to be of no use to anyone, they were mothballed. 

Hoping for the return of the region, the Georgian government was in no hurry to resettle the refugees. 30 years have passed and many of the refugees continue to live in already dilapidated sanatoriums. Many of them are over 60 years old. Most of all they want to return to their homes in Abkhazia. And they are afraid not to have time to do it.

Yuri Chakvetadze, who lives in the Sinatle sanatorium, is now 83 years old. He got an apartment in Kutaisi, but he can’t move there because he can’t stand another change of housing. The only thing he dreams about is going to the grave of his son, who died during the war and was buried near his house in Sukhumi.

Yuri Chakvetadze stands in the lobby of the former sanatorium "Sinatle", Tskaltubo, Georgia. January 22, 2023.Yuri is now 83 years old, 53 of them he has lived in Abkhazia. After his eldest son died, he tried to save his wife and younger son. They were able to escape to Georgia on a ship of the Ukrainian fleet, which helped to take out refugees. They were distributed to the city of Tskaltubo, to the sanatorium "Sinatle". Yuri does not like to think about his home, because his heart immediately hurts.
Yuri Chakvetadze stands in the lobby of the former sanatorium "Sinatle", Tskaltubo, Georgia. January 22, 2023.Yuri is now 83 years old, 53 of them he has lived in Abkhazia. After his eldest son died, he tried to save his wife and younger son. They were able to escape to Georgia on a ship of the Ukrainian fleet, which helped to take out refugees. They were distributed to the city of Tskaltubo, to the sanatorium "Sinatle". Yuri does not like to think about his home, because his heart immediately hurts.
A horse grazing in the central park of Tskaltubo, Georgia. March 19, 2023.The city of Tskaltubo is one of the main health resorts of the USSR. In the center of the city there is a huge park, around which 19 massive sanatoriums and 9 bathroom complexes were built for recreation and treatment of labor strikers and the government of the USSR. Tskaltubo was not only a popular, but also a very elite resort. Joseph Stalin came here to treat his legs. A special railway «Moscow-Tskaltubo» was built for him.
A horse grazing in the central park of Tskaltubo, Georgia. March 19, 2023.The city of Tskaltubo is one of the main health resorts of the USSR. In the center of the city there is a huge park, around which 19 massive sanatoriums and 9 bathroom complexes were built for recreation and treatment of labor strikers and the government of the USSR. Tskaltubo was not only a popular, but also a very elite resort. Joseph Stalin came here to treat his legs. A special railway «Moscow-Tskaltubo» was built for him.
The hall of the former sanatorium «Sakartvelo», Tskaltubo, Georgia. March 15, 2023.When Mikhail Saakashvili came to power in Georgia in 2004, the country’s tourism reform began - former resort towns began to be rebuilt or reconstructed. Sakartvelo Sanatorium, one of the largest in Tskaltubo, where about 1,000 refugees lived, was resettled and bought by a private person. Everything that the refugees did not take with them is thrown out of the windows of the sanatorium to clear the space and prepare the building for restoration.
The hall of the former sanatorium «Sakartvelo», Tskaltubo, Georgia. March 15, 2023.When Mikhail Saakashvili came to power in Georgia in 2004, the country’s tourism reform began - former resort towns began to be rebuilt or reconstructed. Sakartvelo Sanatorium, one of the largest in Tskaltubo, where about 1,000 refugees lived, was resettled and bought by a private person. Everything that the refugees did not take with them is thrown out of the windows of the sanatorium to clear the space and prepare the building for restoration.
Archive photo founded in sanatorium of the sanatorium ”Aia” in Tskaltubo, Georgia, 1986.The sanatorium was built in 1985 for employees of the Ministry of Internal Affairs of Soviet Georgia. The main building is six-storey, with single, double and deluxe rooms. The sanatorium was designed for 125 beds. On the ground floor there was a lobby and a dining room. On the roof there is a billiard room and an air hockey. The sanatorium was distinguished by large mosaics that decorated the dining hall and one of the facades of the building.
Archive photo founded in sanatorium of the sanatorium ”Aia” in Tskaltubo, Georgia, 1986.The sanatorium was built in 1985 for employees of the Ministry of Internal Affairs of Soviet Georgia. The main building is six-storey, with single, double and deluxe rooms. The sanatorium was designed for 125 beds. On the ground floor there was a lobby and a dining room. On the roof there is a billiard room and an air hockey. The sanatorium was distinguished by large mosaics that decorated the dining hall and one of the facades of the building.
Former ”Aia” Sanatorium, Tskaltubo, Georgia. March 9, 2023.The AIA was one of the last sanatoriums in the city where refugees settled. In 1993, the gas supply to Georgia was cut off, the heating system was disrupted, and there was a rolling blackout throughout the country. In order to somehow warm up in winter, the refugees burned books from libraries, removed wooden parquet and dismantled wooden furniture. They used improvised means to close their balconies, leaving only small improvised windows in them.
Former ”Aia” Sanatorium, Tskaltubo, Georgia. March 9, 2023.The AIA was one of the last sanatoriums in the city where refugees settled. In 1993, the gas supply to Georgia was cut off, the heating system was disrupted, and there was a rolling blackout throughout the country. In order to somehow warm up in winter, the refugees burned books from libraries, removed wooden parquet and dismantled wooden furniture. They used improvised means to close their balconies, leaving only small improvised windows in them.
Oscar with a captured rifle in his hands in his kitchen in the former sanatorium ”Aia”, Tskaltubo, Georgia. March 7, 2022.When the war began, Oskar persuaded his family to leave Gagra, and he himself remained to guard the house. He did not want to fight and hoped that the conflict would end quickly and everything would return to normal. When his sister was killed, he took a gun. In Sukhumi, his squad received a tip on a war criminal, when they entered his house, they found a weapons depot. Oscar took one of the guns as a trophy. Later he was shot in the head and taken to Georgia for treatment. He was helped to escape and leave the war zone by his friend, the Abkhaz.
Oscar with a captured rifle in his hands in his kitchen in the former sanatorium ”Aia”, Tskaltubo, Georgia. March 7, 2022.When the war began, Oskar persuaded his family to leave Gagra, and he himself remained to guard the house. He did not want to fight and hoped that the conflict would end quickly and everything would return to normal. When his sister was killed, he took a gun. In Sukhumi, his squad received a tip on a war criminal, when they entered his house, they found a weapons depot. Oscar took one of the guns as a trophy. Later he was shot in the head and taken to Georgia for treatment. He was helped to escape and leave the war zone by his friend, the Abkhaz.
Drowning of Liana. An abandoned house in Abkhazia. March 9, 2022.Liana’s house had 8 rooms, a garage, gazebos made of black grapes, a summer kitchen and a tangerine garden. There was a lime pit between the house and the summer kitchen. Liana was indignant that she was dug up right in the center of the plot. When during the war, one of the shells fell on the territory of the house, it was saved from complete destruction by the fact that the shell hit this lime pit. Now this house is occupied by a family from Abkhazia.
Drowning of Liana. An abandoned house in Abkhazia. March 9, 2022.Liana’s house had 8 rooms, a garage, gazebos made of black grapes, a summer kitchen and a tangerine garden. There was a lime pit between the house and the summer kitchen. Liana was indignant that she was dug up right in the center of the plot. When during the war, one of the shells fell on the territory of the house, it was saved from complete destruction by the fact that the shell hit this lime pit. Now this house is occupied by a family from Abkhazia.
A new neighborhood for refugees, Tskaltubo, Georgia. January 21, 2022.In 2012, the first microdistrict was built for refugees living in the former sanatoriums of Tskaltubo. 560 families were settled in it. The Red Cross presented each family a Karma gas convector.
A new neighborhood for refugees, Tskaltubo, Georgia. January 21, 2022.In 2012, the first microdistrict was built for refugees living in the former sanatoriums of Tskaltubo. 560 families were settled in it. The Red Cross presented each family a Karma gas convector.
Zurab Chilaya sits in the lobby of the former ”Aia” sanatorium, Tskaltubo, Georgia. January 20, 2023.Zurab and his wife Izu did not want to leave their house until they were robbed. Zurab had all his teeth and his lungs knocked out. He is still suffering from severe pain. Izu helped him get to the ship carrying the refugees. In Georgia, they were settled in the sanatorium «AIA» in the city of Tskaltubo.
Zurab Chilaya sits in the lobby of the former ”Aia” sanatorium, Tskaltubo, Georgia. January 20, 2023.Zurab and his wife Izu did not want to leave their house until they were robbed. Zurab had all his teeth and his lungs knocked out. He is still suffering from severe pain. Izu helped him get to the ship carrying the refugees. In Georgia, they were settled in the sanatorium «AIA» in the city of Tskaltubo.
Drawing of Zurab. An abandoned house in Abkhazia. January 20, 2022.Zurab’s apartment was in a house on the edge of Sukhumi. Most of all, he loved his and his wife’s bedroom. The apartment was high up and there was a beautiful view from the bedroom. The house always smelled of the sea. Now this apartment is occupied by other people. At first Zurab was in touch with them and sometimes they sent photos of the apartment, but then this connection was cut off.
Drawing of Zurab. An abandoned house in Abkhazia. January 20, 2022.Zurab’s apartment was in a house on the edge of Sukhumi. Most of all, he loved his and his wife’s bedroom. The apartment was high up and there was a beautiful view from the bedroom. The house always smelled of the sea. Now this apartment is occupied by other people. At first Zurab was in touch with them and sometimes they sent photos of the apartment, but then this connection was cut off.
Founded in sanatorium archive photo of the fountain «Knight in tiger skin» found in the sanatorium in front of bathroom number 6, 1986.The first information about Tskaltub healing springs dates back to the 18th century; the local population used them in the form of baths in natural reservoirs. The history of the resort begins after the establishment of Soviet power in Georgia, when all resorts were declared the property of the people. Every year about 100 thousand people came to Tskaltubo for treatment. Now only three of the nine baths are working.
Founded in sanatorium archive photo of the fountain «Knight in tiger skin» found in the sanatorium in front of bathroom number 6, 1986.The first information about Tskaltub healing springs dates back to the 18th century; the local population used them in the form of baths in natural reservoirs. The history of the resort begins after the establishment of Soviet power in Georgia, when all resorts were declared the property of the people. Every year about 100 thousand people came to Tskaltubo for treatment. Now only three of the nine baths are working.
Abandoned bathroom number 5, Tskaltubo, Georgia. January 23, 2023.The peculiarity of radon waters is that it cannot be transported. After 3-4 hours, it completely loses its properties. This water is useful for the treatment of patients with problems of the organs of movement, nervous system and much more. The resort is trying to recover and regain its former glory. New sanatoriums and baths are being built around abandoned ones.
Abandoned bathroom number 5, Tskaltubo, Georgia. January 23, 2023.The peculiarity of radon waters is that it cannot be transported. After 3-4 hours, it completely loses its properties. This water is useful for the treatment of patients with problems of the organs of movement, nervous system and much more. The resort is trying to recover and regain its former glory. New sanatoriums and baths are being built around abandoned ones.
«Altar of the Dead» in the room of Yuri Chakvetadze, Tskaltubo, Georgia. January 22, 2023.There are two altars in Yuri’s room: the altar of the living and the altar of the dead. On the altar of the dead, Yuri has photographs of his wife, eldest son, parents, Joseph Stalin, Brezhnev, Beria, Shevardnadze and icons. Yuri is nostalgic for the Soviet Union, he says that they lived all together then, but once everything broke up ”brothers became enemies”.
«Altar of the Dead» in the room of Yuri Chakvetadze, Tskaltubo, Georgia. January 22, 2023.There are two altars in Yuri’s room: the altar of the living and the altar of the dead. On the altar of the dead, Yuri has photographs of his wife, eldest son, parents, Joseph Stalin, Brezhnev, Beria, Shevardnadze and icons. Yuri is nostalgic for the Soviet Union, he says that they lived all together then, but once everything broke up ”brothers became enemies”.
Tsitsino Kvirtia stands near her improvised lemon garden in the hall of the former club at the Imereti Sanatorium, Tskaltubo, Georgia. March 2, 2023.When Tsitsino was forced to flee the city of Gagra in Abkhazia, she was 40 years old. She had a two-storey large house by the sea, in which they lived with her extended family. When her brother was captured, they were offered a ransom. They gave everything they had in their house. When the brother came back they immediately fled with the whole family. They were put in one room of the sanatorium. Tsitsino’s husband died, the children left. She lives alone. She still hears the smell of the sea everywhere, which she misses so much.
Tsitsino Kvirtia stands near her improvised lemon garden in the hall of the former club at the Imereti Sanatorium, Tskaltubo, Georgia. March 2, 2023.When Tsitsino was forced to flee the city of Gagra in Abkhazia, she was 40 years old. She had a two-storey large house by the sea, in which they lived with her extended family. When her brother was captured, they were offered a ransom. They gave everything they had in their house. When the brother came back they immediately fled with the whole family. They were put in one room of the sanatorium. Tsitsino’s husband died, the children left. She lives alone. She still hears the smell of the sea everywhere, which she misses so much.